Sediment transport trend in an erosive sandy beach: the case of Matinhos Beach, south coast of Brazil
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.1590/Keywords:
Coastal processes, Numerical modeling, MOHID, Coastal management, Sediment transportAbstract
Sandy beaches have different shoreline change rates (i.e., erosion/accretion rates). An erosive process on beaches poses risks for human-occupied areas. One example is Matinhos Beach (state of Paraná - Brazil), which has an average annual erosion rate of around 1.5 m yr-1 This study applied a methodology that combines in situ measurements and numerical modeling to simulate the physical processes in the coastal area of Matinhos during the 2018 Austral winter. Monthly DGPS surveys were carried out in the study area from June to September. The MOHID modeling system was applied to simulate hydrodynamics and sediment transport, considering waves and tidal forcing validated with in situ data. The WAVEWATCH III and SWAN models were applied in a nesting approach to simulate the waves at Matinhos Beach. The GFS was used to assess the wind conditions. The study period showed a dynamic evolution of accretion and erosion between monthly measurements with no clear pattern in most profiles. Significant sand accumulation was observed near the headland. Morphological changes were minor due to the predominance of low energy without significant storm events. The measured morphological changes are in line with the residual littoral drift obtained from the modeling results for the period. The residual current velocities were towards the southwest, with magnitudes ranging from 0.15 m s-1 to 0.2 m s-1. A slight variation in the angle of wave incidence (10°) may change the direction (southwest or northeast) and intensity of the littoral drift. The applied methodology can reduce uncertainty and support effective coastal management. However, the seasonal scales of wave climate cannot be disregarded, nor can the need for coastal oceanographic data.
References
Alexandrakis, G., Manasakis, C. & Kampanis, N. A. 2015. Valuating the effects of beach erosion to tourism revenue. A management perspective. Ocean & Coastal Management, 111, 1–11.
Angelotti, R. & Noernberg, M. A. 2010. Análise dos riscos ao banho de mar no município de Pontal do Paraná-PR – Temporada 2003/2004.
Brazilian Journal of Aquatic Science and Technology, 14, 65–75.
Angulo, R. J. 1992. Geologia da Planície Costeira do Estado do Paraná (Doutorado em Geociências). São Paulo: Universidade Federal de São Paulo.
Angulo, R. J., Souza, M. C., Muller, E. J., Noernberg, M. A., Oliveira, L. H. S., Soares, C. R., Borzone, C. A., Marone, E. & Quadros, C. L. 2018. Panorama da erosão costeira - Paraná. In: Muehe, D. (Org.). Panorama da erosão costeira no Brasil (vol. 1, pp. 586-640). Brasília,
DF: MMA.
Angulo, R. J. 2000. As praias do Paraná: problemas decorrentes de uma ocupação inadequada. Revista Paranaense de Desenvolvimento, 99, 97-103.
Angulo, R. J., Borzone, C. A., Noernberg, M. A., Quadros, J. L., Souza, M. C. & Rosa, L. C. 2016. The State of Paraná Beaches. In: Short, A. D. & Klein, A. H. F (eds.).
Brazilian Beach Systems. Cham: Springer International Publishing. Bessa Jr, O. 2003. O. Interferência entre a ocupação urbana e a dinâmica natural no Litoral Sul do Paraná. Análise Conjuntural - IPARDES, 25(11–12), 13-17.
Bigarella, J. J., Becker, R.D., Matos, D. J. & Werner, A. 1978. A Serra do Mar e a porção oriental do estado do Paraná: um problema de segurança ambiental e nacional. Curitiba: Secretaria de Estado do Planejamento - ADEA (Associação de Defesa e Educação Ambiental).
Billé, R. 2008. Integrated Coastal Zone Management: four entrenched illusions. S.A.P.I.E.N.S, 1(2). Available from: https://journals.openedition.org/sapiens/198 . Access date: 05 Jan. 2019.
Bocamazo, L. M., Grosskopf, W. G. & Buonuiato, F. S. 2011. Beach Nourishment, Shoreline Change, and Dune Growth at Westhampton Beach, New York, 1996 – 2009. Journal of Coastal Research, 59, 181–191.
Booij, N., Ris, R. & Holthuijsen, L. H. 1999. A thirdgeneration wave model for coastal regions: 1. Model description and validation, Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans, 104, 7649–7666.
Borzone, C. A., Souza, J. R. B. & Soares, A. G. 1996. Morphodynamic influence on the structure of inter and subtidal macrofaunal communities of subtropical sandy beaches. Revista Chilena de Historia Natural, 69, 565–577.
Cecilio, R. O. & Dillenburg, S. R. 2020. An ocean windwave climatology for the Southern Brazilian Shelf. Part I: Problem presentation and model validation. Dynamics of Atmospheres and Oceans, 89, 101101.
Cooper, J. A. G. & Mckenna, J. 2008. Social Justice in coastal erosion management: The temporal and spatial dimensions. Geoforum, 39, 294–306.
De Souza, M. M., Mathis, M., Mayer, B., Noernberg, M. A. & Pohlmann, T. 2020. Possible impacts of anthropogenic climate change to the upwelling in the South Brazil Bight. Climate Dynamics, 55, 651–664.
Ferreira, S.T.A., Amaro, E. V & Santos, T. S. M. 2014. Applied geodesy to integration of topographic and bathymetric data in the characterization of beaches surfaces. Revista Brasileira de Cartografia, 66, 167–184.
Franz, G., Delpey, M. T., Brito, D., Pinto, L., Leitão, P. & Neves, R. 2017a. Modelling of sediment transport and morphological evolution under the combined action of waves and currents. Ocean Science Discussions, 13, 673-690. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5194/os-13-673-2017.
Franz, G., Leitão, P., Pinto, L., Jauch, E., Fernandes, L. & Neves, R. 2017b. Development and validation of a morphological model for multiple sediment classes. International Journal of Sediment Research, 32, 585-596.
Franz, G., Garcia, C. A. E., Pereira J., Freitas, A. L. P., Rollnic, M., Garbossa, L. H. P., Cunha, L. C., Lentini C. A. D., Nobre, P., Turra, A., Trotte-Duhá, J. R., Cirano, M., Estefen, S. F., Lima, J. A. M., Paiva, A. M., Noernberg, M. A., Tanajura, C. A. S., Moutinho, J. L., Campuzano, F., Pereira, E. S., Lima, A. C., Mendonça, L. F. F., Nocko, H., Machado, L., Alvarenga, J. B. R., Martins, R. P., Böck, C. S., Toste, R., Landau, L., Miranda, T., Santos F., Pellegrini, J., Juliano, M., Neves, R. & Polejack, A. 2021 Coastal Ocean Observing and Modeling Systems in Brazil: Initiatives and Future Ocean and Coastal Research 2024, v72(suppl 1):e24030 16. Luersen et al. Sediment transport trend in a sandy beach Perspectives. Frontiers in Marine Science, 8, 681619. DOI: https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2021.681619.
Galgano, F. A. Jr. 2004. Long-Term Effectiveness of a Groin and Beach Fill System: A Case Study Using Shoreline Change Maps. Journal of Coastal Research, 33, 3-18.
Griggs, G. B. 2005. The Impacts of Coastal Armoring. Shore & Beach, 73, 13-22.
Hinkel, J., Nicholls, R. J., Tol, R. S. J., Wang, Z. B., Hamilton, J. M., Boot G., Vafeidis, A. T., Mcfadden L., Ganopolski, A. & Klein, R. J. T. 2013. A global analysis of erosion of sandy beaches and sea-level rise: An application of DIVA. Global and Planetary Change,111,150-158.
Houston, J. R. 2013. The economic value of beaches - a 2013 update. Shore & Beach, 81, 3-10. IBGE (Instituto Brasileiro De Geografia E Estatística). 2018. Modelo de ondulação geoidal. Rio de Janeiro, IBGE. Available from: https://www.ibge.gov.br/geociencias/informacoes-sobre-posicionamento-geodesico/servicos-para-posicionamento-geodesico/10855-modelo-de-ondulacao-geoidal.html. Access date: 17
Sep. 2018.
IPCC, 2022. Climate Change 2022: Impacts, Adaptation, and Vulnerability. Contribution of Working Group II to the Sixth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Komar, P. D. 1976. Beach Processes and Sedimentation. Hoboken, Prentice Hall. Lana, P.C., Marone, E., Lopes, R. M. & Machado, E. C. 2000. The subtropical estuarine complex of Paranaguá Bay, Brazil. In: Seeliger, U., Lacerda L. D. & Kjerfve B. J. (Org.). Coastal Marine Ecosystems of Latin America (pp. 131-145). Berlin: Springer Verlag.
Leitão, P. C. 2003. Integração de Escalas e Processos na Modelação do Ambiente Marinho (Ph.D. Thesis). Lisboa: Universidade Técnica de Lisboa.
Leitão, P. C., Mateus, M., Braunschweig, L., Fernandes, L. & Neves, R. (Ed.). 2008. Modelling coastal systems: the MOHID Water numerical lab. In: Leitão, P. C., Mateus, M., Braunschweig, L., Fernandes, L. & Neves, R. Perspectives on integrated coastal zone management in South America (pp. 77-88). Lisboa: IST Press.
Luijendijk, A., Hagenaars, G., Ranasinghe, R., Baart, F., Donchyts, G. & Aarninkhof, S. 2018. The State of the World’s Beaches. Scientific Reports, 8, 1-11.
MARETEC. 2017. MOHID - Water Modelling System, Lisboa, MARETEC. Available from: http://www.mohid.com/. Access date: 14 Oct. 2017.
Marone, E. & Camargo, R. 1994. Marés meteorológicas no litoral do Estado do Paraná: o evento de 18 de agosto de 1993. Nerítica, 8, 73-85.
Martins, F. 2000. Modelação Matemática Tridimensional de escoamentos costeiros e estuarinos usando uma abordagem de coordenada vertical genérica (Ph.D. Thesis), Lisboa: Universidade Técnica de Lisboa. Martins, F., Neves, R. J., Leitão, P. C. & Silva, A. 2001.
D modelling in the Sado estuary using a new generic coordinate approach. Oceanologica Acta, 24, 51-62. Marzetti, S., Disegna, M., Koutrakis, E., Sapounidis, A., Marin, V., Martino, S., Roussel, S., Rey-Valette, H. & Paoli, C. 2016. Visitors’ awareness of ICZM and WTP for beach preservation in four European Mediterranean regions. Marine Policy, 63, 100-108.
NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration). 2018. Global Forecast System (GFS). Available from: https://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/data-access/model-data/model-datasets/global-forcast-system-gfs. Access date: 17 Sep. 2018.
Noernberg, M., Marone, E. & Angulo, R. 2007. Coastal currents and sediment transport in Paranaguá estuary complex navigation channel. Boletim Paranaense de Geociências, 60–61, 45–54.
Noernberg, M. & Alberti, A., 2014. Oceanographic variability in the inner shelf of Paraná, Brazil: Spring condition. Revista Brasileira de Geofísica, 32, 197–206.
Nordstrom, K. F. 2014. Living with shore protection structures: A review. Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science, 150 Part-A, 11-23. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ecss.2013.11.003.
Novak, L. P., Lamour, M. R. & Cattani, P. E. 2016. Vulnerabilidade aos processos erosivos no litoral do Paraná estabelecido pela aplicação da análise multicritérios. RA’EGA - O Espaço Geográfico em Análise, 38, 195-218.
Oliveira, B. A., Sobral, F., Fetter, A. & Mendez, F. J. 2019. A high-resolution wave hindcast off Santa Catarina (Brazil) for identifying wave climate variability. Regional Studies in Marine Science, 32, 100834.
Paraná State Government. 2019. Paraná entrega projeto da orla de Matinhos em Brasília. 2019. Agência estadual de notícias, Curitiba. Available from: http://www.aen.pr.gov.br/modules/noticias/article.php?storyid=102255&tit=Parana-entrega-projeto-daorla-de-Matinhos-em-Brasilia. Access date: 30 May 2019.
Ratton, E. 2020. Parecer técnico sobre a recuperação da orla de Matinhos, controle de cheias e revitalização urbanística. Curitiba, UFPR. Available from: https://itti.org.br/wp-content/uploads/2020/11/parecer-tecnicorecuperacao-da-orla-de-matinhos.pdf. Access date:
Jun. 2023.
Reguero, B. G., Méndez, F. J. & Losada, I. J. 2013. Variability of multivariate wave climate in Latin America and the Caribbean. Global and Planetary Change, 100, 70–84.
Sampaio, R. 2006. The occupation of Paraná’s beach coasts for balneal use. Desenvolvimento e Meio Ambiente, 13, 169-186.
Sayão, O. J. 1989. Littoral drift along some beaches in Brazil. In: Magoon, O. T., Converse, H., Miner, D., Tobin, L. T. & Clark, D. (Ed.). Proceedings of the 6th symposium on coastal and ocean management (vol. 4, pp. 3638-3746). Reston: American Society of Civil Engineers.
Silvester, R. 1960. Stabilization of sedimentary coastlines. Nature, 188, 467.
Souza, M. C., Angulo, R. J., Assine, M. L. & Castro, D. L. 2012. Sequence of facies at a Holocene stormdominated regressive barrier at Praia de Leste, southern Brazil. Marine Geology, 291–294, 49–62. Sediment transport trend in a sandy beach Ocean and Coastal Research 2024, v72(suppl 1):e24030 17 Luersen et al. Soulsby, R. L. & Damgaard, J. S. 2005. Bedload sediment transport in coastal waters. Coastal Engineering, 52, 673–689.
Tolman, H. L., Balasubramaniyan, B, Burroughs, L. D., Chalikov, D. V., Chao, Y. Y., Chen, H. S. & Gerald, V. M. 2002. Development and implementation of wind generated ocean surface waves models at NCEP. Weather Forecast, 17, 311–333.
Tolman, H. L. 2009. User Manual and System Documentation of WAVEWATCH III TM Version 3.14. NOAA/NWS/NCEP/MMAB Technical Note 276. Camp Springs, U. S. Department of Commerce. Turki, I., Medina, R., Coco, G. & Gonzalez, M. 2013. An equilibrium model to predict shoreline rotation of pocket beaches. Marine Geology, 346, 220–232. Umlauf, L., Burchard, H. & Bolding, K. G. O. T. M. 2018. Sourcecode and Test Case Documentation. Available from: http://gotm.net/manual/stable/pdf/a4.pdf. Access date: 17 Sep. 2018.
Veiga, F. A. 2004. Sedimentologia, morfologia & dinâmica da face da costa no litoral central do estado do Paraná. M.Sc. Geologia Ambiental, Universidade Federal do Paraná.
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2024 Ocean and Coastal Research
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.
Ocean and Coastal Research is an open-access journal available through SciELO (Scientific Electronic Library Online).
Ocean and Coastal Research journal title abbreviation is Ocean Coast. Res. and should be used in footnotes, references, and bibliographic entries.
All Ocean and Coastal Research scientific articles are freely available without charge to the user or institution. In accordance with the BOAI definition of open access, all contents are available to readers free of charge. Users may read, download, copy, and link to the full texts of the articles. They may be used for any lawful purpose without prior authorization from the publisher or the author, as long as proper credit is given to the original publication.
All Ocean and Coastal Research published scientific articles receive an individual Digital Object Identifier (DOI) persistent digital document identification.
All the content of the journal, except where otherwise noted, is licensed under a Creative Commons License type BY. Authors retain the copyright and full publishing rights without restrictions.
More information on intellectual property can be found here and on Scielo's Open Acess Statement.
Ocean and Coastal Research is listed in Publons and reviewers and editors can add their verified peer review and editing history to their Publons profile.
Ocean and Coastal Research is indexed in the Directory of Open Access Journals (DOAJ) and complies with principles of transparency and best practice for scholarly publications.
Ocean and Coastal Research is committed to the best standards in open-access publishing by adopting ethical and quality standards throughout the publishing process - from initial manuscript submission to the final article publication. This ensures authors that their work will have visibility, accessibility, reputation, usage, and impact in a sustainable model of scholarly publishing.
